AUTO Veteran

The Motorist's Pride

500+
DIY Guides
75K
Community Members
1.2M+
Monthly Views

Interactive Diagrams

More Diagrams
Anti-Roll Bar (Stabilizer Bar)

Anti-Roll Bar (Stabilizer Bar)

A metal bar that connects the left and right wheels of the same axle to reduce body roll during cornering. When one wheel encounters a bump or the vehicle turns, the bar transfers some of the force to the opposite wheel, helping maintain vehicle stability and improving handling characteristics. It can be found on front suspension, rear suspension, or both.

DIY Tutorials

All Tutorials
Car Buying Tips

How Reliable are BMW Cars? A Comprehensive Guide …

BMW is a renowned German car brand that produces luxury and performance vehicles. Many car enthusia…

8 months ago
3 Mins read
Frequently Asked Qu…

Demystifying Suspension Problems: A Comprehensive…

Troubleshooting suspension issues can be challenging, but understanding the signs and knowing what …

8 months ago
13 Mins read
Explainer

This is How to Calculate Your Car's Horsepower fr…

Horsepower is a word that you may have heard when talking about cars, motorcycles, or other machine…

8 months ago
2 Mins read
Explainer

Engine Timing: A Comprehensive Guide for Successf…

Engine timing plays a critical role in an automobile's performance and efficiency. Properly adjusti…

8 months ago
6 Mins read
Parts Description

Immobilizers: Your Vehicle's First Line of Defens…

An immobilizer is an electronic security device installed in vehicles to prevent unauthorized use o…

8 months ago
2 Mins read
How To

How to Unblock a Clogged Catalytic Converter

Loss of power, sluggish, over heating, stalling, check engine light on and very little exhaust pres…

8 months ago
11 Mins read
Common DTC Codes

How to Troubleshoot and Repair Common Powertrain …

DTC codes, or diagnostic trouble codes, are codes that are generated by your vehicle’s computer sys…

8 months ago
3 Mins read
Diagnostic Trouble …

P0062, P0063, and P0064: HO2S Heater Control Circ…

DTC codes P0062, P0063, and P0064 are related to the heater control circuit of the heated oxygen se…

8 months ago
3 Mins read

Forum Q&A

All Questions

Seeing a barometric pressure reading of 199 kPa on a 2011 Jaguar at ignition-on is a red flag, this value is physically impossible under normal atmospheric conditions.

Ramphele DL
Replies (2)

Ramphele DL : At sea level, you’re looking at roughly 100 to 102 kPa, and even at the bottom of the Dead Sea (the lowest point on Earth), it doesn’t exceed 108 kPa. So, 199 kPa suggests either a serious sensor input error or a corruption in the ECU’s interpretation of the signal. On Jags of this era, the ECU performs a barometric pressure snap shot during key on before engine start, using the MAP sensor as the measuring device since there’s no separate BARO sensor. If the intake manifold or MAP port is contaminated, restricted, or sees abnormal pressure (like a stuck open EGR or boost control issue), it can skew this reading.

Ramphele DL : But more commonly, it’s a circuit issue check the 5V reference line to the MAP sensor for voltage spikes or resistance. I’ve seen cases where a failing alternator or poor grounding introduced enough electrical noise to make the ECU think it was under 2x atmospheric pressure. Verify the actual supply voltage at the sensor with the connector plugged in (back-probing), and ensure the ground is solid less than 0.2 ohms to battery negative.

At sea level, you’re looking at roughly 100 to 102 kPa, and even at the bottom of the Dead Sea (the lowest point on Earth), it doesn’t exceed 108 kPa. So, 199 kPa suggests either a serious sensor input error or a corruption in the ECU’s interpretation of the signal. On Jags of this era, the ECU performs a barometric pressure snap shot during key on before engine start, using the MAP sensor as the measuring device since there’s no separate BARO sensor. If the intake manifold or MAP port is contaminated, restricted, or sees abnormal pressure (like a stuck open EGR or boost control issue), it can skew this reading.

Ramphele DL

Yes, a faulty O2 sensor can cause this issue. It helps regulate the air-fuel mixture. If it's not working properly in cold conditions, the engine may run too rich or lean, resulting in rough idling and vibrations.

Jimna Mustafa
Replies (3)

Alvin Knex : If it’s the O2 sensor, why would it only happen when the engine is cold? Wouldn’t it affect performance all the time?

Jimna Mustafa : Good observation! Many O2 sensors only become active once the engine reaches operating temperature. When cold, the engine runs in 'open, loop' mode and ignores the O2 sensor, relying on preset fuel maps. If the sensor is failing, it might only cause issues once it starts influencing the fuel mixture, or if it sends incorrect signals during warm-up.

Alvin Knex : Turns out the upstream O2 sensor was failing. Swapped it out, and the violent shaking is gone. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

If it’s the O2 sensor, why would it only happen when the engine is cold? Wouldn’t it affect performance all the time?

Alvin Knex